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The alternative animal : Roasted young goat leg with pancetta, lemon and thyme

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Serves 6

Step 1
Preheat the oven to 230C/450F/gas mark 8.

Step 2
Put the onions, cut lemon and garlic cut-side down in a roasting pan, then scatter half the thyme on top.

Step 3
Drizzle the leg with olive oil, season liberally.

Step 4
Zest and juice the remaining lemons and massage into the leg.

Step 5
Place the leg on top of the onions, lemon and garlic in the roasting tray.

Step 6
Pick the leaves off the remaining thyme.

Step 7
Sprinkle over the leg.

Step 8
Evenly layer the pancetta strips from the top to bottom of the goat so it is fully covered.

Step 9
Roast the leg for 30 minutes, until it starts to caramelise and the pancetta has crisped and rendered.

Step 10
Turn the oven down to 180C/350F/gas mark 4 and cook for a further 45 minutes.

Step 11
The leg should still be juicy and pink.

Step 12
Cook for a further 25 minutes for well done.

Step 13
Transfer the leg to a warm spot to rest, then make the sauce.

Step 14
Remove any fat from the roasting pan, then pour in the wine.

Step 15
Set over a hob.

Step 16
Reduce the wine, deglazing the base of the tray as you go.

Step 17
When the wine has almost evaporated, pour in the stock and add the resting juices from the goat leg.

Step 18
Slowly reduce the gravy to a saucy consistency, strain through a sieve and keep warm.

Step 19
Carve the leg and transfer to a platter or plate, then spoon over the gravy.