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Pasta with tomato sauce and bacon

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Serves four

For the tomato sauce

Step 1
Leave out the bacon if you prefer.

Step 2
Pinch of sugar.

Step 3
Make the sauce first.

Step 4
Heat the oil in a wide frying pan over a medium-low heat.

Step 5
Add the garlic and sweat gently for a couple of minutes – don't let it colour.

Step 6
Crush the tomatoes, then tip into the pan.

Step 7
Add a bay leaf, if you have one, bring to a simmer, and cook for 20-30 minutes, stirring often and crushing down the tomatoes with a fork until you have a thick, pulpy sauce.

Step 8
Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar.

Step 9
Leave it as a slightly chunky sauce or, if you prefer a smooth finish, blitz it with a hand-held blender (remove the bay leaf first).

Step 10
You can make the sauce ahead of time and chill or freeze it.

Step 11
Bring a large pan of water to the boil, salt it well, then add the pasta and cook until al dente.

Step 12
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan, add the bacon and fry until crisp.

Step 13
Add the tomato sauce and let it simmer with the bacon for a few minutes, stirring often, allowing it to reduce and thicken a little further.

Step 14
Add black pepper to taste – it probably won't need more salt.

Step 15
Drain the pasta and toss immediately with the sauce.

Step 16
Serve straight away, with a trickle more extra-virgin oil on top and more freshly ground black pepper to taste.