Proper English trifle

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Serves 8-10

Step 1
I soak the sponge in orange-flavoured alcohol (I loathe the acrid dustiness of standard-issue sherry), infuse the custard with orange, and make an orange caramel to sprinkle over the top; this seems to bring out the fruity, egginess of it all, even if you are reduced to using frozen fruit.

Step 2
So use the quantities below – which will fill a bowl of about 1½ litre capacity – as a guide only.

Step 3
Pour the single cream into a wide, heavy-based saucepan, add the orange zest – reserving the juice, separately, for the moment – and bring to the boil without actually letting it boil.

Step 4
Take off the heat and set aside for the orange flavour to infuse while you get on with the bottom layer of the trifle.

Step 5
Mix together the Grand Marnier, marsala and the reserved orange juice and pour about half of it into a shallow soup bowl, keeping the rest for replenishing halfway through.

Step 6
If you’re using the trifle sponges, split them horizontally; if the challah or brioche slices, take the crusts off and cut them each into two equal slices.

Step 7
Make little sandwiches with the jam, and dunk each sandwich, first one side, then the other, into the booze in the bowl and then arrange the alcohol-sodden sandwiches at the bottom of the trifle bowl.

Step 8
If you’re using the challah or brioche, you might need to make up more of your alcoholic mixture, as the bread seems to soak it all in much more quickly and thirstily.

Step 9
When the bottom of the bowl’s covered, top with the fruit and put in the fridge to settle while you get on with the custard.

Step 10
Bring the orange-zested cream back to the boil, while you whisk together the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl large enough to take the cream, too, in a moment.

Step 11
When the yolks and sugar are thick and frothy, pour the about-to-bubble cream into them, whisking as you do so.

Step 12
Wash out the pan, dry it well and return the custard mixture, making sure you disentangle every whisk-attached string of orange zest; you will be sieving later, but for now you want to hold on to all of it.

Step 13
Fill the sink with enough cold water to come about halfway up the custard pan.

Step 14
On medium to low heat cook the custard, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon or spatula.

Step 15
If it looks as if it might be about to boil or split, quickly plunge the pan into the sink of cold water, beating furiously until danger is averted.

Step 16
When it’s cooked and thickened, take the pan over to the sink of cold water and beat robustly but calmly for a minute or so.

Step 17
When the custard’s smooth and cooled, strain it over the fruit-topped sponge and put the bowl back in the fridge for 24 hours.

Step 18
Not long before you want to eat it, whip the double cream till thick and, preferably with one of those bendy rubber spatulas, smear it thickly over the top of the custard.

Step 19
Put it back in the fridge.

Step 20
Toast the flaked almonds by tossing them in a hot, dry frying pan for a couple of minutes and then remove to a plate till cool.

Step 21
Squeeze the orange, pour it into a measuring jug and then measure out an equal quantity – gram for millilitre – of sugar; I reckon on getting 100ml of juice out of the average orange.

Step 22
Pour the orange juice into a saucepan and stir in the sugar to help it dissolve.

Step 23
Remove from heat, and when cooled slightly, dribble over the whipped cream; you may find this easier to do teaspoon by slow-drizzling teaspoon.

Step 24
Scatter the toasted almonds over before serving.